Training Tips

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 A few pointers to keep your dog safe:
 - Check leash and collar equipment frequently.  Use a leather collar with a metal buckle. The black plastic spring-pinch buckles can pop open and dogs have been lost this way.  The collar should be snug so that two fingers can fit tightly underneath.  If you can pull the collar over your dog's head, so can he.
NECR does not support the use of prong collars. Please see the following link:
http://ppgworldservices.com/2014/03/01/choke-and-prong-collars-health-concerns-call-for-equipment-change-in-dog-training/
Effective  and safe gear for controlling pulling on lead include the Easy-Walk brand ( or other frontleading) harness, or Gentle Leader.  Both available at most pet stores.
- When travelling, be careful when car doors open. Have someone in the car hold the dog's leash or collar. When alone, use extra care, or tie the dog to a headrest while you get out. Keep a leash on your dog while in the car - unless he'll chew it.
- Raisins, grapes, onions, garlic, xylitol ( in sugarless gum) and chocolate can be toxic to dogs.  Keep hydrogen peroxide on hand and know how to make your dog vomit in case he gets into these things.
- Check latches on storm doors. Make sure that door and gates close securely, and that all guests and visitors know the rules regarding doors and dog safety.
- Check fencing and gates routinely.  Make sure there are no gaps or digging spots under fences. Gates should be as high as the fence and have secure latches. 

 If you are introducing your new hound to resident dogs, follow these tips - this applies to introducing any dogs, but especially rescues who may be coming from a difficult past.
- First meeting should be in a neutral place. Meet in a park or take a walk together in a place away from your home.
-If that goes well, progress to time together in your yard, staying outside the house. If first meetings can occur in a fenced area without leashes on the dogs, it will give them more freedom and confidence to interact.
-When the dogs seem comfortable together, bring them into the house.  Prepare the area by removing dishes with food, beds, and toys - anything that could provoke a conflict.  Leave plenty of room around doors and make sure there is enough space around furniture so that no one gets cornered easily.
-It's often best to feed dogs seperately, in different rooms, or in their crates.  Some rescues have experienced hunger and they can be possessive around food.
-Do not give the dogs 'high value' chew items for several months.  This would include
rawhides, soup bones, and any other toys or items that resident dogs are especially excited about. 
-Offer petting and treats equally.  Have both dogs sit before you for treats, pet both dogs simultaneously, etc.  Having both dogs able to perform a solid 'sit' command will help in these situations.
Follow this link to a good article on the subject:
http://thegooddoglifeblog.com/2014/02/07/introducing-new-dogs-to-your-pack-a-recipe-for-non-disaster/ 

 You can never be careful enough around dogs and young children, toddlers especially.  Crates and constant vigilance are your best tools to keep everyone safe.  Even if the dog seems fine around your child, every day is a new day as the child becomes stronger, bigger, and more mobile.  Who can predict which day the dog might get to the point of snapping or nipping in frustration?  Some dogs who are well-trained around adults will see children as creatures of equal stature and may challenge them.
Seek professional help from a trainer if a child is entering your life.  Learn to read your dog's body language to sense discomfort, stress or anxiety. A few guidelines: children should never be near dogs when they are eating, nor should they approach dogs who are sleeping.  Games of 'chase' and tug-of-war should not be allowed. These can escalate into dominance struggles.  NEVER leave dogs and young children in a room alone. 

 Carry a treat with you when you go outside to potty.  Give your dog the treat and praise immediately when she goes – or even while she’s peeing.  This is better reinforcement than rewarding back inside the house. Crate training is a big help with housebreaking.  Your dog will need to go when released from the crate, so this helps to time and predict his need to go out.  Take him out immediately on release from the crate.  Then he can play loose in the house for a while. Take him back out before putting him back in the crate as well. Dogs often like to go in the same spot, so you’ll have better results if you take your dog to a spot where he previously peed.  If you’re having trouble getting him to go outside, take a paper towel with pee on it to a spot outside and let him sniff that – he may get the hint. If you’re traveling, visiting, or on a walk somewhere else, take your dog to a similar surface he’s used to peeing on (i.e. if she likes leaves, find a spot with leaves; if she likes crushed stone/gravel, find a spot with that surface)  Males are a little easier because they usually just seek out a vertical object. 

 A dog who's had some obedience training is easier to handle for many reasons.  Not only is it useful to have your dog 'sit' or 'come' on command, but the process of training reinforces your role as the 'Alpha' being and pack leader.  It also gives your dog confidence to experience that there are predictable outcomes for certain (positive) behaviors.

Positive-based training works best with most dogs, especially coonhounds.  Some of our rescues have come from a difficult past and can easily develop trust issues if treated harshly.  Good pointers for positive-based training can be found here:
http://www.tailsinc.com/2015/03/30-best-positive-training-tips/

Training class are a great way to spend time with your dog, and a useful environment for establishing obedience routines with distractions ( other dogs and people) present.  Also consider bringing a trainer to your home once or twice - that can be a much better way to work on behaviors you experience there like counter surfing, barking at the doorbell, etc. 

 Some of the dogs we get have never walked on a leash before.  They are usually accustomed to it within a day or two and will at least walk in one direction, However, it is common for them to pull on the leash.  Many coonhound owners prefer a front-leading harness (such as the EasyWalk brand) used with a retractable tape leash.  Get the retractable leash with tape all the way up  - not the rope type which can give rope burns.  This will give your hound freedom to sniff and the front-leading harness will prevent pulling. Techniques like ‘orbit walking’ are very effective and worth trying before resorting to choke collars. 

Orbit or Radius Walking:The object is to NEVER allow the dog to pull you.  You don't necessarily want to walk a coonhound in the 'heel' position, they typically like more leeway and will enjoy sniffing.  But you do want them to stay within a radius of you ( slightly less than the length of the leash). When he reaches the end of the leash and pulls, stop, or walk in the opposite direction.  Don't yank on the dog, but do hold the leash very firmly against your body so that as the dog reaches the end it results in a solid "pop", rather like the result of a chained dog running to the end of its tether.

Most dogs that want to pull are wanting to "lead the charge". Unless there's something specific to focus on (like a squirrel or cat) they don't really care what direction you're going in; they just want to get there first. In such a situation reversing usually means that the dog will respond by running past you to take the lead again, and by the time he gets there you've reversed again. If you do this with the typical mutt or herding breed you usually have to reverse only a handful of times before the dog gets the idea that running to the end of the lead is counterproductive. Some scenthounds take a lot more repetition to get the message, but they still get it.

If you don't think you can readily master this technique, then "just stopping" is easy, and will eventually work, though it takes longer. One important point is that the dog must learn that he will NEVER get to go where he's trying to pull you. If he succeeds even occasionally, he'll "play the lottery" to see whether THIS time he can get away with it. The other important point is that you have to use a collar that's appropriate to what you're doing, and you don't ever want to have the dog on a choker or prong collar if the situation will allow continuous, strong pulling. You can also carry small treats with you, call the dog back to you and reward,  If she looks back at you and slows or stops her ‘charge’, also reward. There are videos on youtube.com which illustrate these techniques.